A two braces and a half of Ohio wines

• 2007 Hermes Vineyards Tempranillo - USA, Ohio, Lake Erie (4/21/2010)
  Started off very nice with red fruit nose backed with light chervil-ey notes. Nice round body and good acids. Not complex, but some side elements of leather and orange. Easy drinking and nice. Alas, the charms faded very quickly and the wine grew flabby with no Temp character. Dropped very fast and was not enjoyable.

2007 St. Joseph Vineyards Pinot Noir Pinot Vista - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (4/21/2010) Nice stemmy Pinot nose with some earth and wet stone. Good stance on the body which is good thin. Bright fruits with a nice bitters quality and a bit of chew. Nice succulence on the finish, mineral and tonic elements. Very pretty balance here and a zingy vibe. More than very nice.

• 2008 Kinkead Ridge Révélation - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (4/21/2010)
  Not much nose. Elements of grapefruit peel and pith. While these might provide complexity, the structure and depth wasn't there. Not bad, but lacking interest or pleasure.
• 2008 Kinkead Ridge Riesling - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (4/21/2010)
  Nice Riesling fruit nose with apple pie elements. Light body, clean and simple structure with that nice fruit hanging off of it. Slightly starchy plantain elements on the finish. Quite nice.
• 2008 River Village Cellars (Kinkead Ridge) Traminette Rock Springs Vineyard - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (4/21/2010)
  Medium Tram nose with more soapier elements. Light sweet upfront, medium body. More soapy elements on the finish. Lacked any precision. So-so.

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Full Tasting Notes from National Wine Marketing Conference (74 wines / 14 states)

This is the full summary of pretty much everything I tasted at the National Wine Marketing Conference. There are a few other things I tasted, but didn’t properly note. My dominant interest is in wines that express their place of origin, so I have no tasting notes (and usually didn’t try) wines whose grapes did not come from the winery’s state.

A few brief comments about my notes :

- I am a tough grader. ‘OK’ means a pretty decent wine, but I am ever more stingy going above that. To be ‘good’ or better, a wine has to express something beyond its mere fruit.

- I don’t like apparent oak. I don’t like un-apparent oak where the treatment has clearly been to the detriment of the fruit and, most importantly, structure of the wine. Particularly in cold-climes or with high-acid grapes, I find way too many of the wines ruined by the intrusion of oak. A word to the wise – the fashion for oak flavors is a trend well on the wane.

- While my notes reflect my personal tastes, I also try to remove that and note where wines that I may like are not going to other’s tastes.

- Given the nature of the conference, most of the notes are brief and dominant impressions. In general, I look for and write about structure, balance and integration far more than the usual litany of taste descriptors.

In a further post, I will make more general comments about the wines, the states and my collected impressions from the two years I’ve attended this meeting.

Lastly, a big thanks to all the states and wineries for being so generous of their wines and their time. It is always the biggest treat to talk with them and feel their passion for what they do.

 

Idaho

• 2009 Cinder Viognier - USA, Idaho, Snake River Valley (4/13/2010)
  Odd. Fresh cabbage nose and palate which has a charm, but also is not typical or even expected at all. I liked it, but it is tough to recommend.
• 2008 Vale Riesling Idaho - USA, Idaho, Snake River Valley (4/13/2010)
  Crisp and transparent fruits. Nice quality here and remarkably consistent with a year ago. Well done.
• 2008 Cinder Syrah Snake River Valley - USA, Idaho, Snake River Valley (4/13/2010)
  Modern in body and nose with plush extracted too-ripe fruit. Noticeable oak. Underneath is a charm and vibe though.
• 2006 Bitner Vineyards Shiraz - Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, Idaho, Snake River Valley (4/13/2010)
  Modernly sculpted. Jammy fruits.

Illinois

• 2009 Lynfred Winery Seyval Blanc - USA, Illinois (4/13/2010)
  Fresh, ripe veggies on the nose, high-toned Sauv B-like. Slight sweet on the palate. A bit thin on the body. Nice.
• 2007 Fox Valley Chardonnay Reserve - USA, Illinois (4/13/2010)
  Oak and malo on the nose. Palate follows suit. Can't escape it. No.

Indiana

• N.V. Butler Vineyards Cayuga Vineyard Select - USA, Indiana (4/13/2010)
  Correct and does dry Cayuga well. Nice enough.
• 2008 Butler Vineyards Chambourcin - USA, Indiana (4/13/2010)
  Thin, but correctly Chambourcin then oak intrudes. OK.
• N.V. Easley Traminette - USA, Indiana (4/13/2010)
  Nice floral nose. Hits an odd wheaty sweet vibe. Some floral on the palate. Medium finish and persistence. Nice.
• N.V. Mallow Run Winery Traminette - USA, Indiana (4/13/2010)
  Muted floral nose with some bitters that follow on the palate. Good balance and middle. Slight medicine on the finish. OK.
• 2009 Oliver Winery Traminette Creekbend - USA, Indiana (4/13/2010)
  Nice volume on the floral nose. Granny Smith apple crispness on the palate. Vanishing finish, but a good overall presence. Very nice.

Iowa

• N.V. Tassel Ridge St. Croix In The Dark - USA, Iowa (4/13/2010)
  Messy and lacking structure or a center. Poor fruit. No.
• 2009 Tassel Ridge LaCrescent - USA, Iowa (4/13/2010)
  Sickly sweet with no acids or body. No.
• N.V. Summerset Winery Caba Moch - USA, Iowa (4/13/2010)
  Pink apple juice on the nose and palate. Good acid spine gives this some interest. Well done in the style and deserve note for hitting its mark very well.

Kansas

• N.V. Holy-Field Chambourcin - USA, Kansas (4/13/2010)
  Does the variety well with nice fruit and good acids. OK + .
• N.V. Holy-Field Cynthiana - USA, Kansas (4/13/2010)
  Has much of the failings of the variety and doesn't deliver the charm.
• N.V. Holy-Field Seyval Blanc - USA, Kansas (4/13/2010)
  Starts nice with good fruit then falls into an iffy finish - thick and off-floral.

Maryland

• 2007 Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard Comus - USA, Maryland (4/13/2010)
  So-so. Heavy hand of treatment dulled out the fruit.
• 2005 Fiore Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, Maryland (4/13/2010)
  Raw nut skins on the nose. Light with a good bite and dusty notes. Nice.
• 2004 Fiore Cabernet Franc - USA, Maryland (4/13/2010)
  Interesting. Oddly medicinal bitter notes which I liked - in a tasting amount - but are not going to appeal to many.

Michigan

• N.V. Fenn Valley Vidal Blanc 42˚ Ice Wine - USA, Michigan, Lake Michigan Shore (4/13/2010)
  Nice mangoes and flowers. Kind of trails off on the finish and a little weak on acid structure. Still a nice dessert wine at a great price point.
• 2005 St. Julian Winery Chancellor Braganini Reserve - USA, Michigan, Lake Michigan Shore (4/13/2010)
  Of type with correct fruit. Nice.
• 2006 Black Star Farms Pinot Noir Arcturos - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula (4/13/2010)
  This wine exceeded its 2006-ness in the past, but that has caught up now. Thin, hollow, acidic. Some bits of nice fruit left.
• 2007 Longview Winter Ice - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula (4/13/2010)
  Sweet honeycomb on the nose. Maple syrup and orange elements. Way sweet. Not my thing, but undeniable quality and charm.
• 2008 Forty Five North Pinot Noir Rosé - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula (4/13/2010)
  Better than in tastings last fall. Nice crispness followed by softer fruit. Good bead.
• 2007 Gill's Pier Cabernet Franc - Merlot - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula (4/13/2010)
  Nice nose with brambles and fruit. Great cut and persistence. Some mocha notes. Brawny structure. Really good.
• 2007 Brys Estate Pinot Noir Artisan Series - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula (4/13/2010)
  Nice nose with flower dust and dark fruits. Good body, nice integration and a sappy appeal. Yummy. Much improved from Fall '09.
• 2007 2 Lads Cabernet Franc Reserve - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula (4/13/2010)
  Has grown in stature with deeper strains of dark fruit, a nicely-rounded body and an overall integration. Lurking power and a perfumed-finish.

Missouri

• N.V. Les Bourgeois Vidal Blanc Late Harvest - USA, Missouri (4/13/2010)
  Nice interplay of floral, sweet and fruit. Enjoyable, nice clarity. Good.
• 2008 Mizzou Cellars Norton - USA, Missouri (4/13/2010)
  True to type in the fruit. Solid. A little too much on the treatment though. Too bad.
• 2008 St. James Winery Chambourcin - USA, Missouri (4/13/2010)
  Sour Patch on the palate. Interesting and charming.
• 2008 Les Bourgeois Vidal Blanc - USA, Missouri (4/13/2010)
  Nice nose with a good floral depth. Very clean and precise. Nice stuff.
• 2005 Stone Hill Brut - USA, Missouri (4/13/2010)
  Simple and square, but nice and correct. Definitely enjoyable.
• 2007 Les Bourgeois Norton Premium Claret - USA, Missouri (4/13/2010)
  Nice balance of tart and inner sweet on the top, but the treatment reared its ugly head.
• 2005 Mount Pleasant Norton - USA, Missouri, Augusta (4/13/2010)
  Good kind of volatile nose. Some EtOH. Cool funk. Some annoying oak, but restrained. Good delivery. Nice.
• 2008 Montelle Vignoles Dry Vignoles - USA, Missouri, Augusta (4/13/2010)
  Good funk on the nose. A little disappointing on the palate as too inert. OK.
• 2006 Stone Hill Chambourcin - USA, Missouri, Hermann (4/13/2010)
  Nice age-y nose with dusty cherries and clay. Expressive of variety. Medium finish continues. Solid and good.

New York

• 2008 Red Newt Cellars Riesling - USA, New York, Finger Lakes (4/13/2010)
  Correct off-dry Riesling though simple and somewhat flat. OK.
• 2008 Heart & Hands Wine Company Pinot Noir - USA, New York, Finger Lakes (4/13/2010)
  Really nice cold climate Pinot with floral undertones, slight stemminess and light finish. Nice + .
• 2007 Red Newt Cellars Gewürztraminer Sawmill Creek Vineyards - USA, New York, Finger Lakes (4/13/2010)
  Lovely nose of oranges. Nice interplay of the bitter and spicy of the varietal. Solid structure and orange-peel charming finish. Very good +.
• 2008 Knapp Seyval Blanc - USA, New York, Finger Lakes (4/13/2010)
  Gunsmoke on the nose. Thin, extruded. No.
• 2007 Knapp Vignoles Estate - USA, New York, Finger Lakes, Cayuga Lake (4/13/2010)
  Nicely done with good acids and restrained vibe. OK +
• 2008 Damiani Cabernet Franc - USA, New York, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake (4/13/2010)
  Basic colder-clime CF without going outside or above. OK.
• 2008 Leonard Oakes Estate Winery Blanc d'Orleans - USA, New York, Niagara Escarpment (4/13/2010)
  Nice. Crisp, a little sweet. Slight vegetal. A bit thin on the end.

Ohio

• 2008 Debonné Riesling Reserve - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (4/13/2010)
  Nice apricot on the nose. Clean, mineral and slight edge of sweet. Balanced. Nice.
• 2008 Ferrante Chardonnay Signature Series - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (4/13/2010)
  Melon on the top. Creamy and thick then oak just totally blasts it. Shame as there is some nice stuff inside.
• 2008 Debonné Vidal Ice Wine Express Estate - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (4/13/2010)
  Hits exactly the vibe and presence this style of wine should. Nice in small doses.
• 2008 Ferrante Riesling Grand River Valley - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (4/13/2010)
  Good nose with peaches and citrus. Lighter body. Overall nice.
• 2008 Hermes Vineyards Nebbiolo - USA, Ohio, Lake Erie (4/13/2010)
  Slight florals on the nose, but too anemic body. Some good fruit. Disharmonious finish.
• 2008 Valley Vineyards Cabernet Franc - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (4/13/2010)
  Nice vegetal aromas. Plums. Nice stuffing. Persistent oak spicing annoys. OK, could have better.
• 2008 La Vigna Proprietary White Wine - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (4/13/2010)
  Previously experienced nice cut which has faded on this now. Some good fruit. Lack of precision and somewhat mute though.
• 2007 Kinkead Ridge Cabernet Franc - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (4/13/2010)
  Consistent with previous - dark fruits, some earthy veg notes. Dark. Licorice too.
• 2007 Meranda-Nixon Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Estate - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (4/13/2010)
  Very consistent with previous notes - dark fruits, mocha edges softened, velvet textures and a nicely brooding presence. Very good.
• 2008 Valley Vineyards Vidal Blanc Ohio River Valley - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (4/13/2010)
  Nice for what it is and hits it mark, but not exceeding that.
• 2006 Kinkead Ridge Révélation - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (4/13/2010)
  Also showing the signs of 2006-ness with a thinning middle and seams showing. Opened bottle was better next day with some of the acids sloughed off and the overall muting helped. Still some nice fruit.

Oklahoma

• 2006 Chapel Creek Winery Muscat - USA, Oklahoma (4/13/2010)
  Toothpaste nose. Slightly sweaty sweet. Florals. Good.

Pennsylvania

• 2007 Galen Glen Chambourcin Stone Cellar - USA, Pennsylvania (4/13/2010)
  Nicely done in the context of the variety. Clean and well-delineated. OK + .
• 2007 Crossing Vineyards Cabernet Franc - USA, Pennsylvania (4/13/2010)
  Nicely correct and holds a center. Good green. OK.
• 2007 Chaddsford Winery Chambourcin Miller Estate Vineyard - USA, Pennsylvania (4/13/2010)
  Starts with nice Chambourcin dusty cherries on the nose and palate, but then the oak blasts it apart. (Oak flavors boasted on the label - always a bad sign.) Ultimately a no which is a shame as the fruit behind had promise.
• 2008 Penns Woods Traminette Penns Woods - USA, Pennsylvania, Central Delaware Valley (4/13/2010)
  Resolutely Traminette with floral aromatics, light body and zero finish. Still nice.
• N.V. Conneaut Cellars Pinot Noir - USA, Pennsylvania, Lake Erie (4/13/2010)
  Good funk on the nose. Light and transparent in color and character. (11.5%abv). Some woody and green notes. Elegant. Hits a good vibe for me.
• 2008 Presque Isle Sauvignon Blanc - USA, Pennsylvania, Lake Erie (4/13/2010)
  Decent nose with some herbal. Nice enough overall.

Texas

• 2008 Inwood Estates Palamino - Chardonnay - USA, Texas (4/13/2010)
  Light leather on the nose. Nicely tart with crispness. Short on the finish and a bit mono-dimensional. Good.
• 2007 Alamosa Wine Cellars Scissortail High Valley Vineyard - USA, Texas (4/13/2010)
  Light floral and more acidic than expected from white Rhone varieties. Very linear and straight forward. Nice.
• 2007 Inwood Estates Tempranillo-Cabernet - USA, Texas, Texas High Plains (4/13/2010)
  Good. Nice open structure, some oak apparent. Good fruits and balance. Good.
• 2006 Inwood Estates Magellan - USA, Texas, Texas High Plains (4/13/2010)
  Plums and spice on the nose. Good tannins. Tight. Very good.
• 2005 Alamosa Wine Cellars Syrah Tio Pancho Ranch - USA, Texas, Texas Hill Country (4/13/2010)
  Nice meaty nose. Good Syrah fruit with some treatment. Good + .
• 2004 Alamosa Wine Cellars El Guapo - USA, Texas, Texas Hill Country (4/13/2010)
  Nicely evolved from a year ago with leather, orange peel. Good structure and textures. A bit of funk. Nice finish. Really good stuff.
• 2006 Stone House Vineyard Norton Claros - USA, Texas, Texas Hill Country (4/13/2010)
  Nicely on the vibe of the variety. Good.

Virginia

• 2006 Veritas Vineyard Othello - USA, Virginia, Central Region, Monticello (4/13/2010)
  Light on the nose and palate which lifts the sweetness. Good acids and a slight leather and mocha element. Very nice.
• 2007 King Family Vineyards Meritage - USA, Virginia, Central Region, Monticello (4/13/2010)
  Solid Meritage with structure, nuts and properly moving fruit. Really good stuff.
• 2007 Barboursville Vineyards Cabernet Franc Monticello - USA, Virginia, Central Region, Monticello (4/13/2010)
  Nice ++ . Solid fruit, round structure with a plushness. Soft finish with some edges. Balanced.
• 2008 Pollak Vineyards Viognier - USA, Virginia, Central Region, Monticello (4/13/2010)
  Acceptable white with resolutely middle tones and doesn't deliver Viognier special qualities.
• 2005 Albemarle Meritage - USA, Virginia, Northern Region, Blue Ridge Foothills (4/13/2010)
  Light nose with good fruit. Light weight, slight EtOH intrusion, some spice. Good finish with fruit that grows. A nice basic red.

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License to Steal / National Wine Marketing Conference

Last year, I attended License to Steal, a national conference for marketing wines and wineries from non-traditional areas of the United States. It was a fascinating experience both from the diversity of wines I got to try as well as the difference in mindset from my own, a theme I will explore in depth later. Since tasting notes are my usual schtick, today I will highlight the best and most interesting wines I tried this year.

 

The real stand-out wine was top red from the Ohio vs Michigan Wine Clash 2009 , 2 Lads Cabernet Franc Reserve 2007 (Old Mission Peninsula, MI). Since tasting it last in during the Clash, the wine has grown in stature with deeper strains of dark fruit, a nicely-rounded body and an overall integration. Lurking power and a perfumed-finish. Several people commented to me on the wine and the bottle emptied quite quickly. This wine makes a case to be one of the best bottles of wine I have ever had from non-traditional states and would not be way down the list on the best young domestic wines I’ve had. 2 LadsWinery

 

Last year, one of my favorites was Alamosa Cellars 2004 El Guapo, a Tempranillo from the Texas Hill Country. This year, I used the power of Twitter to make sure they were bringing it again and I was glad for a chance to re-taste. I am happy to report that I liked it again. A lot. A year has taken off the oak notes (which were correct and balanced before - “well into being absorbed” was my statement last year and born out) and added some nice earthy funk. Orange-peel tinged fruit receded even more. Lots of brick, leather and other great non-fruit playing a central role. Good stuff. Their Alamosa Cellars Tio Pancho Syrah 2005 was  noteworthy enough to merit inclusion in my top wines. The white Rhone blend Alamosa Cellars Scissortail 2007 was also of merit. More acidic than typical of the varieties (not a bad thing) and some florals. Alamosa Wine Cellars.

Idaho has a fascinating agricultural environment across the board, but I am really intrigued by both the idea and the actuality of wines coming out of there. The incredible volcanic-tortured soils of the area just have to be able to produce something unique and special. What remains is to see exactly what and – the tough part – how.

A big special shout-out from the design-side of my mind to Cinder Wines for the hands-down best bottle design. For my tastes, the Cinder Wines Syrah 2008 (Snake River Valley, ID) was too modern in style with extracted-plush fruit and too much oak. While the latter is correctable, the former may very well be exactly correct for the terroir and climate. That said, the wine was well-made and could well-absorb the treatment. While in the style of big Shiraz/Syrah, it exceeds most. Excited to see where this wine and winery go. Cinder Wines.

 

Also props to Vale Wines Riesling 2008 (Snake River Valley, ID). It was not so superlative as to warrant special notice last year, but it captured my attention for of the same nice quality with crisp, transparent fruit again this year. (Yes, I did have my notes from last year to which to refer.) Vale Wine Co.

My surprise pick of the year – Summerset Winery Caba Moch (IA). This unique blend of Catawba and Marechal Foch was a nice, slightly sweet rosé which was made pleasant by a nice acidic spine (the Foch, I suspect). Definite pink apple juice qualities and not a “fine wine,” but I have to respect the bead this wine held and the quality. Summerset Winery.

Red Newt Cellars Gewurztraminer Sawmill Creek Vineyard 2007 (Finger Lakes, NY) was a very nice example of the variety. It both played off the bitter/spicy of the variety with a nice orange-peel finish and a solid structure. (My peep Lenn Thompson of the New York Cork report has also given this 4/5 stars.) Red Newt Cellars.

Finally, the King Family Meritage 2007 (Monticello, VA) affirmed my appreciation for Virginia wines. Just a solid Meritage with structure, nuts and properly moving fruit. This wine won the VA Governor’s Cup in 2010. King Family Vineyards.

Wines from Virginia and Georgia

Spring Break took us South with an yen for some of the best dining in the United States. Town House in Chilhowie, VA has become a destination dining spot for diners looking for a combination of local and seasonal ingredients combined with immaculate and modern technique. Prior to dining there, I contacted the sommelier, Charlie, to arrange a flight of VA wines. He responded incredibly with a beautiful flight.

 

Charlie deserves a special shout-out here not only for being so willing to oblige, but for being passionate and knowledgeable about them. The regular restaurant wine list does feature the wines and the first wine listed below was complimentary bottle in their Riverstead farmhouse where we stayed. I often rant about restaurants which brag about their local roots and fail to follow through (looking at you, Greenhouse Tavern in CLE!)  – this was a big exception and win.

 

I was impressed with the overall quality of VA wines (and had enjoyed some before.) While some things are stylistically not to my liking, the quality was definitely there.

 

• 2008 Villa Appalaccia Winery Pinot Grigio - USA, Virginia, Northern Region, Blue Ridge Foothills (4/1/2010)
  Slightly saline-y nose. Very crisp and light with nice persistence. Clean, slight peach and citrus-acidity. Balanced. Very pleasant.
• 2005 Kluge Estate Brut Blanc de Blancs SP - USA, Virginia, Central Region, Albemarle County (4/1/2010)
  (Townhouse Grill, Chilhowie VA) Light and crisp with a really nice minerally persistence. Blossoms. Balanced and complete in a light vibe. (I think this wine is ill-served labelled as BdB as it gives rise to an expectation of more body and power.) Edges of fresh cheese notes and very clean finish. Really well-done in its style and delightful. (It say something about this wine that we kept drinking it even in the company of the more robust Selosse Substance.)

2009 Jefferson Vineyards Chardonnay - USA, Virginia, Central Region, Monticello (4/1/2010) (Town House Grill, Chilhowie VA) Really nice. Light nose with apricot and slight vanilla. Leafy elements too. On the palate, a delightful balance of tropical fruits with kiss of vanilla and a subtle creaminess. Harmonious. Very impressed.

 

• N.V. Villa Appalaccia Winery Toscanello - USA, Virginia, Northern Region, Blue Ridge Foothills (4/1/2010)
  (Townhouse Grill, Chilhowie VA) Pretty color. Nice nose w/ fruit and stems. Svelte, heading to lean. Green elements which grow to dominate. (Blend of Sangio and Cab Franc.) Never harmonized.
• 2005 Barboursville Vineyards Octagon - USA, Virginia, Central Region, Monticello (4/1/2010)
  (Town House Grill, Chilhowie VA) Good stuff. On the cusp of modern for me, but holds very resolute with a nice square structure. Solid dark fruits, good backbone of acids and tannins. Holds a really good vibe and expresses the Meritage blend in a clever fashion. Quite enjoyable.

 

Our son, Top Chef fan extraordinaire, insisted we visit runner-up Kevin’s restaurant, Woodfire Grill in Atlanta. His schtick is very much local and seasonal and the wine list does have several Georgia wines embedded in it. I was intrigued especially since some of the varieties listed were ones I rarely see domestically. I had hoped to arrange a flight, but the sommelier there was less obliging. I decided to bite the bullet, order three bottles, sample lightly (I was driving) and take the remainders. I do have to say the sommelier was knowledgeable about GA wines, but I do wish he had been more accommodating as I suspect (and his conversation confirmed) that interest in GA wines is not so common.

One aside here is that the price points are not very friendly (40-55$  / bottle). The restaurant mark-ups were typical – I do wish a locally-focused restaurant would take a bit less to make the local wines more available – so the retail price point is still steep (20-30$). Even the wine I did like a lot is comparable to wines at half that price. I appreciate that the difficulties and factors that go into making wines in places like GA and that will reflect in pricing, but there has to be a break for consumers there somewhere. Desire to ‘go local’ aside, it just becomes irrational consumer behavior to pay double for an equivalent.

 

2008 Persimmon Creek Seyval Blanc - USA, Georgia (4/6/2010) (Woodfire Grill, ATL) Really nice. Lovely nose of grass and vine cuttings. Crisp and bright on the top with a nice lingering citrus leaf and fruit. Light, balanced and really on point. Blind, would swear it was Sauv Blanc. Lovely sipping wine with apps and cheeses. A very nice wine all around. Well done.

 

 

• 2005 Frogtown Touche' - USA, Georgia, Lumpkin County (4/6/2010)
  (Woodfire Grill, ATL) Dark color. Nice nose with a start of dark fruits which sadly get washed away by mocha and vanilla. Palate follows suit though there is some good structure and balance but the overall effect is the treatment and latent elements of extraction. In this style - which will appeal - it is a good effort and has merit. Airing just accentuated the treatment elements and the structure failed to stay apace. Just too "avant-garde" (their term) for me.
• 2006 Tiger Mountain Vineyards TNT - USA, Georgia (4/6/2010)
  (Woodfire Grill ATL) Interesting wine. A unique mix of Touriga Nacional and Tannat. Nice color. Light in body. (11.5% abv). Nice nose with earthy edges, slightly mushroomy. Acidic fruit on a nice vibe, but lacking structure and body. Plummy on the finish with some leather and mineral edges, but again just not enough overall to carry the wine. Certainly not a bad wine, but has the unfortunate aspect of making me wish for more of what was there.

 

Villa Appalaccia

Kluge Estate

Jefferson Vineyards

Barboursville Vineyards

 

Persimmon Creek

Frogtown Cellars

Tiger Mountain Vineyards

Ohio Wine Tasting Notes

A big lazy way to generate some content? Sure, but I do have a lot of tasting notes on Ohio wines going back to preparing for the Ohio vs Michigan Wine Clash 2009.

Ohio Wine and Grape Conference 2010

First and foremost, I have to mention a unique experience at the winter Ohio Grape Grower’s conference. Not a great wine, but something memorable :

1992 Valley Vineyards Seyval Blanc - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (2/20/2010) Incredible nose of potpourri and old perfume (Coty?). Acidic and tart, very fleeting on the palate, but an amazing nose that evolved and developed cinnamon spicing as well. Super cool to experience a hybrid at this age. Still can recall that nose two month later when I got around to transcribing this note.

 

A couple of bottles also of Valley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve too.

2001 – Smokey and reductive/rubber on the nose. Thin and off-flavors. Not bad, not good either.

2002 – VV nose with dusty elements. Nice tart cherry, good kind of thin, light body. Nice tart finish though persisted into a Ludens-like vibe. Overall good stuff.

 

At the same conference, I got to taste a bunch of wines from the OARDC’s test vineyards. To put in proper context, these wines are not meant as finished products for consumers but as experiments with the variety, winemaking, grape-growing or other factors.

- 2008 Traminette (Wooster) Lovely nose typical of Tram then a nice follow-through with a touch of sweet. Nicely handled.

- 2008 Chardonnay (Wooster) Clean and nice. Precise.

- 2008 Riesling (Wooster) Also clean and correct. Nice.

- 2008 Frontenac Rosé (Wooster) Nice rosé with good acid and touch of sweet structure.

-2008 Cabernet Franc (Lake Erie) Tight and trim with restrained fruit. Good stuff.

-2008 Late Harvest Vidal Nice florals and crisp, though got bitter and bite-y potpourri elements too.

Also had the interesting experience of having an OARDC version of a Lake Erie Cabernet Franc alongside a commercial version from the same vineyard. The OARDC version was better for a reason I keep harping on – less use of oak.

 

Prelude to the Ohio vs Michigan Wine Clash

As part of selecting the wines for the Clash, I held a group tasting of Ohio wines to help in picking Ohio’s representatives. The wines are listed in the ranked preferences. With the Ohio wines are ringers from other areas. As you can see the Ohio wines did quite well.

 

Whites

2008 Kinkead Ridge Riesling - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (9/26/2009)
Soft nose. Bland and flat on my palate with acids not being bright. My tasters wholly disagreed. Top white. (1/5)

2008 La Vigna Proprietary White Wine - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (9/26/2009)
Lemon poppy seed nose. Nice dry precision and a mineral dusty finish. Very nice. Tasters agreed and very tiny variance in scores. (2/5)

2007 Ferrante Riesling Golden Bunches - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (9/26/2009)
Nice lime notes and slight oil on the nose. More going on that usual here with a good depth on the finish. Minerality backing as well. Not as liked by my tasters (3/5)

2007 Left Foot Charley Riesling - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula (9/26/2009)
A fakey-petrol aspect on the nose. Seafood aspects. Very disharmonious and hard to figure out. Tasters also. (3/5)

2006 Weingut Robert Weil Riesling Estate Riesling Dry - Germany, Rheingau (9/26/2009)
Heavy petrol - just too-too as it overpowers lime and dulls the wine out. Not liked at all by tasters. (5/5)

 

Pinot Noir

2005 Maple Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir - USA, Ohio, Lake Erie (9/26/2009)
Nice funk on the nose with cured cherries. Really tight and coil with cherry juice. Unwound with a lovely structure and precision. Held a really nice vibe even expressing some soil and blood. All but one taster concurred. Top Pinot (1/7)

2007 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Russell Family Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (9/26/2009)
Very Loring with loaded berries and a nice Ruebenesque body. Good power and balance. Well-liked by tasters. (2/7)

2007 St. Joseph Vineyards Pinot Noir Pinot Vista - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (9/26/2009)
Neat tarry and strange flowers nose. Lots of good fruit and a nice structure. Generally like by tasters with a couple of exceptions. (3/7)

N.V. Ferrante Pinot Noir - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (9/26/2009)
A bit soft. Nice, but dull. Middle of pack for tasters (4/7)

2008 2 Lads Pinot Noir - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula (9/26/2009)
Consistent with 8/27 note. Nice dark fruits came a bit more to the fore. I liked this more than my tasters. (5/7)

2007 Harpersfield Vineyard Pinot Noir Reserve - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (9/26/2009)
Smokey-oak nose. Some good structure underneath, but too suppressed and not delivering enjoyment. (6/7)

2004 Faiveley Bourgogne - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (9/26/2009)
Harsh and yukky. Tasters agree. (7/7)

 

Meritage Varieties and Blends

2007 Kinkead Ridge Cabernet Franc - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (9/26/2009)
Lots of juicy fruit on the nose and dominating the top palate. Very broad. Really well-like by my tasters - top of the Meritage flight. (1/8)

2005 Kinkead Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (9/26/2009)
Very nice overall. Well-rounded Cab fruit with balance. A slight off-edge to me, but still a really nice wine. Tasters concurred (2/8)

2007 South River Winery Karma - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (9/26/2009)
Yammy nose and oak prickles. Hot. Disjointed. My tasters generally liked it though. (3/8)

2004 Valley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (9/26/2009)
Not unlike the 5/5 notes, but dirtier and less sculpted. Liked by tasters in general. (3/8)

2003 Markko Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, Ohio, Lake Erie (9/26/2009)
Slight oxidative nose. Dried fruit, leafy notes. Held together by a charming vibe. Back and forth between yes and no. Top Meritage for one taster, but generally middle of pack (5/8)

2007 Kinkead Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (9/26/2009)
Nice fruit but really bound in a mocha and structure cage. Hard to evaluate. Tasters felt the same (6/8)

2007 La Vigna Proprietary Red Wine - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (9/26/2009)
Like 9/8 note, but less enjoyable and more loose. Panned by tasters (7/8)

2004 Roth Cabernet Sauvignon Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley (9/26/2009)
Naptha elements on the nose. Yukky on the palate. Tasters agreed. (8/8)

 

Off-dry Whites

2008 Meranda-Nixon Winery Traminette - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (9/26/2009)
Consistent with 5/09 note.

2008 River Village Cellars (Kinkead Ridge) Traminette Rock Springs Vineyard - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (9/26/2009)
Some nice Traminette qualities, but feels very artificial and confected.

 

Local Matters sponsored an Ohio wine tasting.

2007 Ferrante Riesling Golden Bunches - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (10/8/2009)
(Local Matters Wine Tasting @HouseWine) Consistent with 9/26 with more mineral water/sweet on the finish. Nice.

2007 Firelands Winery Pinot Noir - USA, Ohio, Isle St. George (10/8/2009)
(Local Matters Wine Tasting @HouseWine) Interesting nose reeling in raw/green to almost flawed. Nice acids, a lot of vegetal elements which many will loathe, but barely kept on the near side of acceptable for me. OK, with those caveats.

2005 Firelands Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, Ohio, Isle St. George (10/8/2009)
(Local Matters Wine Tasting @HouseWine) Totally consistent w/ previous note.

2008 Firelands Winery Gewürztraminer - USA, Ohio, Isle St. George (10/8/2009)
(Local Matters Wine Tasting @HouseWine) Really pretty aromatics. Light body, good crispness. Solid overall.

2007 Ferrante Chardonnay Signature Series - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (10/8/2009)
(Local Matters Wine Tasting @HouseWine) Dominated by the oak. Flabby Chard fruit underneath. No.

And all the rest …

2007 Harpersfield Vineyard Pinot Gris St. Fiacre - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (4/9/2010)
Slight spritz. Very consistent with 4/20/09 note though less crisp and lighter on the elements.

2007 St. Joseph Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Fume' Blanc - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (4/9/2010)
Hmm. Muted compared to previous though certainly not bad. In a place between strong varietal SB and where mineral/secondary/terroir would emerge ... except I am not sure what there is to emerge from GRV.

2008 Harpersfield Vineyard Cuvée de Deux - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (3/28/2010)
Consistent with previous notes. Really nice aromatics.

2007 Kinkead Ridge Cabernet Franc - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (1/31/2010)
Nice juicy fruit with currant-y elements and a clove-y underpinning. Well-knit, a touch of fruit sweetness but acids in balance too. Very enjoyable.

2007 Kinkead Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (1/31/2010)
Overwhelming sweetness and viciously candy. Lashing of the treatment give vanilla/rock candy. Some volatile elements too. Certainly gobs of fruit and structure there as well. Neither of us able to drink a glass, but this may go somewhere.

2008 Valley Vineyards Syrah - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (12/27/2009)
Oak notes overwhelm a pretty decent Syrah fruit. A little better than OK.

2007 Ferrante Riesling Golden Bunches - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (10/31/2009)
Nice lime notes and slight oil on the nose. More going on that usual here with a good depth on the finish. Minerality backing as well. Not as liked by my tasters (3/5)

2008 Raven's Glenn Traminette Autumn Spice - USA, Ohio, Tuscarawas River Valley (10/14/2009)
Nice Trammy nose on the good restrained side. Nice acids upfront with a solid fruit character. Very nice middle which grows and holds a good bead. Medium finish w/o the abrupt Traminette fashion and some orange bitters. Really nice - a top notch Traminette.

N.V. Heritage Vineyards Traminette - USA, Ohio (10/14/2009)
Slightly soapy nose (two glasses, so not it) with over ripe melon aspects. Cheap floral perfumes on the palate. Light sweetness and the finish improves the floral qualities. So-so.

2007 South River Winery Exodus - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (10/14/2009)
Vanilla and raw sugar nose. Nice solid fruit underneath layers of treatment. I fear the worst...
But am proven wrong. Day two brought a more integrated wine with the fruit taking over the middle and the treatment being only a sidelight and mellowed.

2007 Firelands Winery Merlot - USA, Ohio, Isle St. George (10/14/2009)
Stemmy nose. Nice clear color. Light body. Pretty cherry fruit and a little chewy grip. Nice finish with some acids and a little mocha hint. Light overall, but nice.

N.V. Laurello Vineyard Muscat Muscat Blanc - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (10/14/2009)
Peach and floral nose - on the dimmed side. Nice freshness and orange flower aspects. Light on the palate. Lacks cut and precision, but nice.

2007 Laurello Vineyard Josephine - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (10/14/2009)
Soft, but nice aromatics - like a steel needle backing a light potpourri. Bright citrusy fruit upfront, but smokey/leesy rasp in the middle and finish. Nice dry down elements and a nice fruit left. Would be much more pleasant w/o that rasp.

N.V. The Winery at Otter Creek Corot Noir - USA, Ohio (10/10/2009)
(Twice w/ consistent notes) Basic fruit with slight touch of treatment. Some plastic notes. Soft, medium finish. Not bad.

2007 St. Joseph Vineyards Pinot Noir Pinot Vista - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (10/9/2009)
Tight Pinot fruit on the nose with side florals. A but choppy on the palate but correct structure. Tight, coral notes. Nice restrained elegance on the finish with the fruit central. Really nice.

2007 Kinkead Ridge Cabernet Franc - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (10/9/2009)
Mulled spice fruit on the nose. Nice currant-y notes on the top. Very bold and bright with solid ripe fruit and a licorice backbite. Well-integrated. Not to my liking in styling, but overall fine quality.

2008 Ferrante Pinot Grigio - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (10/9/2009)
No nose. Slight maple syrup note. Thin, a bit reedy. Develops floral/talc aspects on the nose and palate. More peachy later. Has nice qualities, but also doesn't hold a vibration.

2007 St. Joseph Vineyards Pinot Noir Reserve - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (10/9/2009)
Odd oak and burnt notes on the nose - like burnt fruit pie. Some reduction elements. Time sent it more off-kilter with oak being 2x4 and putty-like. Not enjoyable.

2008 Harpersfield Vineyard Cuvée de Deux - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (10/9/2009)
Consistent with 9/2 with a little thicker texture and slightly sloppy finish to start. Time knit it somewhat. Really lovely delicacy on the top is the take-home element.

2008 Kinkead Ridge Révélation - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (10/9/2009)
Much different than previous. Very shrill on the palate and little nose. Flat and dulled finished. No.

2008 Kinkead Ridge Riesling - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (10/9/2009)
Nice nose with honey and apple elements. Bright on the palate with a nice crispness and subliminal sweetness. Nice dried herbs on the finish and mineral-lite.

2007 Ferrante Vidal Ice Wine - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (10/8/2009)
Sweet nectarine juice with Looza-like elements. Not bad, but not at a really interesting place either.

2007 Ferrante Chardonnay Reserve Peter Sr. Vineyard - USA, Ohio, Grand River Valley (9/16/2009)
Oak and butter notes more predominant on the nose. Follows up with less balance than previous bottles. Has a nice vibe and persistence. Good bitters notes. A bit disjointed overall, but still good.

2008 Firelands Winery Riesling - USA, Ohio, Isle St. George (9/16/2009)
Apple/malic on the nose and palate. Some sugar. Thin and reedy too. Doesn't carry itself well. Not balanced.

2008 Valley Vineyards Cabernet Franc Rosé - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (9/15/2009)
Same qualities as 6/09, but still marred by imprecision and flab.

2007 Kinkead Ridge Cabernet Franc - USA, Ohio, Ohio River Valley (9/14/2009)
Dark fruits and a slight smoke on the nose. Big fruit rush. Short on the finish. Really disjointed. Plenty of good stuff in the mix with a slight green pepper and flannel aspect. Hard to evaluate.